[clark598dahl]

Hello,
Regular vehicle maintenance is key to safety, performance, and saving money in the long run. From oil changes and tire rotation to checking brake pads and fluid levels, small tasks can prevent major issues. In this thread, let’s share tips, schedules, and tools we use to keep our vehicles in top condition. Whether you're a weekend DIY mechanic or someone who prefers the shop, your insights can help others stay road-ready. Got questions or a favorite maintenance checklist? Drop them here and join the discussion on keeping your ride reliable and efficient. Let's keep those engines running smooth!

Best Regards,
Clark Dahl

[Rolebama]

As for tyre rotation, I never do it, and don't recommend it. Simply because of immediate cost. Changing two tyres on an axle is cheaper than all four at once.
Similarly, I do not recommend services and MOTs at the same time. I believe it better to try for the annual/major service around the mid-time between MOTs as that way the checks are twice a year, and the little niggles can be found and sorted before they become major problems.

[olduser]

On front wheel drive cars (FWD), I found changing tyres side to side at about service intervals worked best.
As Rolebama points out changing two tyres is less of a financial shock.

On FWD tyre manufacturers recommend new tyres go on the back, obviously the part worn rears go up to the front, this gives the new tyre a chance to, 'run in', new tyres need to dry out.

Oil changes, it is important on modern engines to use oil of the same technical spec as recommended by the manufacturers and change the filter.
As the engine gets older, it tends to get more dirt into the oil, so it is worth changing the oil filter between services.
Depending on the orientation of the filter, it is kinder to the engine to pre-wet the filter or fill it with oil (depending on orientation) before fitting, with a smear of oil on the rubber sealing washer the filter can be tightened by hand.

Always start spark plugs at least a couple of turns by hand to be sure they are not cross threaded, 'cause it takes a long time and effort to put it right.

Anti freeze lasts about three years, so change every three years.
Brake fluid, is best changed as recommended, it is hydroscopic (it absorbs water) this can turn into steam which doe's not work in a hydraulic system.

Rust stains at pivot points is an indicator of trouble - investigate.

Oil level, coolant level, and tyre pressure are worth checking weekly, if not, certainly monthly, all are best checked cold, it is better to use your own tyre gauge. Check the spare.
Whist checking tyre pressure, a quick look at wear patterns will indicate what is going on.
Wear at one side of tread - alignment problem (a few makes of cars do normally wear tyres unevenly).
Wear on both edges - tyre running underinflated.
Wear in centre of tread - over inflated.

For long journeys fully laden, it is worth inflating to loaded pressures in the handbook (or look up on internet) but remember to deflate when back home.

A smeary wind screen, if dry can be cleaned with white spirit. (don't forget the wiper blades)
If there is damp around then use methylated spirit.
I never found a windscreen washing solution that would cope with road grime.

Squeaky bushes respond to PTFE spray or WD40, WD40 will refresh plastic bumpers.
Avoid, oil or WD40 in locks, (anything wet attracts and holds dust) the best is graphite powder second PTFE spray.

Trying to apply polish in strong sun is hard work and frustrating so if you must, do it on a cool car avoiding the sun.
Some polishes work easier on a damp cloth (it will say on the tin)

Car shampoos usually contain rust inhibitors, washing-up liquid doe's not so don't use it.

[Drivingforfun]

I apologise in advance if I'm wrong but this OP had a whiff of AI about it, I don't know if it's a new account intending to look genuine to then post adverts, like we had issues with a couple of years ago.

[Beelzebub]

Originally Posted by Drivingforfun

I apologise in advance if I'm wrong but this OP had a whiff of AI about it, I don't know if it's a new account intending to look genuine to then post adverts, like we had issues with a couple of years ago.

It certainly has a whiff of spam!

AI or not, it seems American. Refers to "the shop" rather than "the garage".

[TylerM]

I am a mobile mechanic and often go to alot of roadside jobs as well.

From what I have seen of many vehicles with severe engine damage etc, is bizarrely don't follow the manufacturers service schedule 🤣. Get your timing belts done if it is a conventional belt at least a year earlier, and if it is a wet belt every 4-5 years!

Also if you drive more than 8000 miles a year I would recommend doing an additional oil change at the halfway point between your "full services" especially if it is a diesel as they are prone to developing alot of sludge in the engine from lack of oil changes.

Finally, if you tend to book your vehicle services online at the "big chains", the prices may seem fairly good, but their full service is typically just an oil, oil filter and air filter change using the cheapest parts possible. Often other filters and fluid in the car are neglected, quite often i see cars driving on their original fuel and pollen filters at over 10 years old!

[Rolebama]

I always recommend all fluid levels be checked weekly. The point is not to top up, but to monitor loss. Any loss of any fluid should be checked out immediately. (The only exception to this is wiper fluid, as it is sacrificial.) Also as brake pads/shoes wear, allowance should be made for more fluid level going down as pistons reposition. Never overfill any system with a Maximum Level mark. This is to allow for expansion when hot. Excess fluid will escape, and sometimes takes a little extra with it causing false levels.

A little while ago I discovered that some people were over-inflating tyres for better mpg. Do not do this. The tyre needs to flex to give better grip whilst driving, more importantly though, when braking. At best you may save £1 on a tankful, but you would be putting lives at risk.

[olduser]

Originally Posted by TylerM

I am a mobile mechanic and often go to alot of roadside jobs as well.

From what I have seen of many vehicles with severe engine damage etc, is bizarrely don't follow the manufacturers service schedule 🤣. Get your timing belts done if it is a conventional belt at least a year earlier, and if it is a wet belt every 4-5 years!

Also if you drive more than 8000 miles a year I would recommend doing an additional oil change at the halfway point between your "full services" especially if it is a diesel as they are prone to developing alot of sludge in the engine from lack of oil changes.

Finally, if you tend to book your vehicle services online at the "big chains", the prices may seem fairly good, but their full service is typically just an oil, oil filter and air filter change using the cheapest parts possible. Often other filters and fluid in the car are neglected, quite often i see cars driving on their original fuel and pollen filters at over 10 years old!

Referring to wet timing belt changes - the belts do need to be changed but it is just as important to have the oil strainer in the sump cleaned at the same time, because that is where most of the rotted away belt will be.