[404State]

Hi

I'm looking to buy Dacia Duster and I'm happy driving slowly; pottering around on the mountain roads where I live. With that out of the way, and if there's anyone listening who hasn't left the thread in disgust, I wondered if you could help with a few questions please?

The best Duster for me is the Essential, not least of all because it has 16" steel wheels. I've heard that's best for bad roads and protecting the suspension - better than the 17" and/or better than alloys that are found on other trim levels. Would you agree?

If so, I *think* the Essential is only available with the 1L 3 cylinder engine. (Can anyone confirm if that's the case?) I don't need to drive fast, I like the fact it will be the cheapest insurance of the bunch. However....

- I read today that turbo engines are bad for short runs. My work is 7 miles away. Not sure if that counts as short? But I also often do much shorter drives, just over a mile if a frequent one. How big a problem is this? The only alternative would be to look for a 1.6L non-turbo model, but then I've heard bad things about that engine. Or a diesel. Apparently while most diesels are also bad for short runs, the Dacia is ok. But I've never had a diesel and would prefer not to if possible.

- Occasionally I'll want to load the back of the car with branches and logs for firewood. Would the 1L cope?

- How about steep hills in the Welsh mountains?

- On another matter, can anyone confirm if all the TCe (1.0, 1.2, 1.3) engines have timing chains? What does the 1.6 and diesel have?

- Lastly, are any of the engine choices to be considered more reliable and long lasting than the others?

Sorry for the long post and TIA for any help.

Cheers

[Drivingforfun]

I might be completely off here, but I think the turbo would be ideal, not because you need the speed, but because you’d benefit from when the turbo is not in use (i.e. most of the time)

I might be wrong, but the impression I get is up until about 20 years ago turbos were (and still partially are) essentially for making the engine drink more to produce more power. This means when you’re not using it you can make do with a smaller engine so nowadays where economy matters we have a new use for them...

With a larger engine, you’ve got the power more readily accessible, but the vast majority of the time when you don’t need that, you’ve got to fuel an unnecessarily large engine

As for longevity I think naturally aspirated engines are considered to last longer, but I suppose you’ve got the fuel economy and insurance costs to balance that out; not to mention whether you think you’ll still have the car in 10-20+ years when the engine gives up

As for the wheels I'd say you’re spot on when the smaller, steel, wheels. Tyres will be cheaper too. 👍

[olduser]

I have run a Fiesta with the 0.99 ltr 3 cyl engine and the mid range turbo (feels like driving a normal 1.4)
This engine was designed to be sold in three different configurations, none turbo (underpowered), turbo to lift power to equivalent of 1.4, and turbo to lift power to equivalent to 1.6.

I ran the car for 2 yrs (around 17,000 miles) without any trouble's, and without being made aware of the turbo while driving.

The point is the engine was designed from concept to have turbo boost, the idea that turbo engines don't last as long comes from the early days of turbo's when the turbo was an add on to an existing engine.
Adding the turbo allows more air and therefore more fuel which increases cooling requirements in return for more power, on existing engine design it is difficult to increase cooling (oil and water).

When starting from scratch, cooling is easily accommodated, the only other demand is lubrication of the turbo, this is critical, the designer will have considered this, such that all we need do is follow the servicing requirements. (time, grade, and type of oil)

Short runs are not a good idea for any IC engine but modern engines are designed to warmup very quickly.

Older larger turbos had a problem, due to their inertia and high revs they take time to rundown, and stop after the engine has stopped but with the engine stopped the oil pump was not pumping oil to the turbo, this could cause bearing damage.
The small engine has a smaller lighter turbo with less inertia so the turbo stops very quickly. solving that problem.
(It it still good practice NOT to rev the engine before switching off)

Summing up, if the Dacia was designed for a turbo then it should be OK. (being 3 cyl it is probably a new design)
Life is really a function of servicing.
If you don't mind using the gearbox, and living in Wales you will be used to that, then the 3 cyl with turbo would be my choice.

Wheels depends on you, if you keep making contact with kerbs or rocks steels are better, there is a chance of knocking out any kinks.

Your timing chain question Dacia will answer that for you.

Hope that helps.

[404State]

Hi

Thank you so much for the informative replies - really helpful and much appreciated.

Seems the 1.0 basic model is the one to go for then, which is music to my ears :)

For the record, this is what got me to thinking about the turbo and short run issue:

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/a...-turbo-engine-

Other than that I knew nothing about it, so thanks for the enlightenment.

I'm curious as to how the turbo works. I'm sure I read that it kicks in at around 2,000 to 2,500 revs but that seems rather low. Does that sound right to you? In the back of my mind I'm thinking that if I drive slowly on the very short journeys then perhaps the turbo wouldn't even kick in?

Thanks again

[olduser]

If the engine turbo combination works as well as the Ford unit you should be totally unaware of the turbo.
Just drive the car, actually on the ford the turbo has an effect from around 1,300 RPM. but as long there is exhaust flowing the turbo will be turning it may not be pushing air into the engine but it will be turning.
Your car will have a water pump but you don't worry about it do you, the turbo (these days) is just part of the engine?

When the car is not utilising the turbo the efficiency suffers, the engine and turbo were designed to work as one package.

[404State]

Just popping back to say thanks again for the help and advice. We went with a 1L Duster Essential in the end and collect at the end of the week.

This thread was really useful and the detailed and well explained responses are much appreciated. I learnt a lot about turbos, including how much I totally knew nothing about them!

I hope the Duster stands up to our terrible roads better. Some time ago when I first started thinking about what car to get for better suspension protection, I read and was told time and again that steel wheels and high tyre side walls are really important. I can find similar views now by googling, and conversely I can find articles/threads saying that low profile tyres are bad for suspension parts. So I assumed that the Duster with its steel 215/65 R16 wheels should hold up to the awful roads where I live better than my current Corsa's alloy 195/55 R16 wheels. Elsewhere though the verdict seems to be different, and I'm told there won't be much in it. The Duster will offer a more comfortable ride on account of the steel wheels and chunkier tyres, but not more protection of the suspension. We'll see, I guess.

I continue to learn....!

Cheers

[Nick]

Great to hear @404State , I hope your new Duster serves you well out there!
We have some great members with some great knowledge so glad you were able to get some solid advice!

Don't be a stranger if you have anything else you want to ask or chat about!
Have a great week!

[404State]

Thank you @Nick - that's very kind of you :)

[olduser]

Over the years, with suspensions on cars, if I managed to bend or break parts, I told myself I should pay more attention.
If suspensions wore out, I put that down to poor design, I did find replacing worn rubber parts (the usual) with polyurethane improved their life tremendously.

Like many plastics it is susceptible to UV (sunlight) degradation but under a car that is not a problem, it resists oil, and solvents better than rubber.

These days suspension rubber parts made from polyurethane are available, from other sources.
Polyurethane on steel makes for a better bearing than rubber on steel, it is slightly stiffer than rubber so may transmit more noise though I never noticed.